Photo
Credit
Donald Miralle for The New York Times
SAN
DIEGO — The ocean and the sky melted together in a gray mass, making it
tough for the surfer to size up the coming waves. Would they crash down
on top of him and hold him under — or break in just the right spot for
him to catch the perfect ride?
By
day, the surfer, Helmut Igel, is not fazed by six-foot waves. But it
was after midnight, on a moonless sea. Surfing is not the same in
darkness.
Igel,
55, is among a small subculture of surfers who dot coastlines from San
Diego to Sydney after sunset, pursuing an adventure that’s a subject of
curiosity on social media these days thanks to pro surfers on LED
boards. Visibility is but one of the perils.
Sharks,
while rare along the coast here, can hunt at night. And surfers cannot
count on being rescued by lifeguards; they left hours ago.
So why paddle out under the stars? Elbow room, mainly.
“These
days on a full moon, you can still paddle out to a crowd. On other
nights, it’s like stepping
into a time in California pre-‘Gidget,’” said
Igel, referring to the 1959 movie about a teenage girl’s infatuation
with surf culture that helped kick-start a boom in the sport.
Estimates
of the number of surfers worldwide vary greatly — the International
Surfing Association says it is 35 million — but forecasts indicate that
the sport is growing. More surfers means more traffic on the water as
they wait for waves, continually battling for position, given that the
surfer closest to the curl gets the wave. Crowding also strains surf
etiquette, which calls for only one rider per wave (or two on a two-way
peak).
So
Igel agreed to an interview, as well as a request to shadow him in the
water, on one condition: no naming the precise spot he frequents,
somewhere between Camp Pendleton Marine Corps Base and the curving La
Jolla coastline 40 miles to the south.
Before
hitting the darkened seas, Igel strapped on a helmet that was crusty
from all the exposure to salt water, snapped a selfie and texted the
picture to his wife to try to put her mind at ease. It does not always
work, he said.
Duct-taped
to the helmet were orange and purple glow sticks, a longtime night
surfer accessory that alerts riders streaking across a wave to paddlers
in their path.
Glow
sticks can seem primitive next to the LED technology employed by pro
surfers in video and social media clips in recent years. The most famous
night ride to date took place in 2011: The Australian big-wave surfer
Mark Visser — equipped with a buoyancy vest and a board with specially
engineered LED lights — surfed 30-footers at the Hawaiian break Jaws.
“It
started off as, ‘This is the most terrifying thing,’ but once I settled
down and was able to really feel what was happening and be in the
moment, it was the most amazing experience,” said Visser, noting that
his death-defying stunt had required four years of preparation.
Visser’s
tricked-out life jacket and board were not designed to light up the
waves, but rather to enable rescue crews to spot him in the event of a
wipeout. He figured out during training that lights pointed in any
direction but behind him were blinding.
The
Australian board maker Mike Bilton — one of the few producing
commercial LED surfboards — encountered the same problem while
developing a prototype.
“Later
designs moved the lights mostly to the underside of the board, which
casts a bit of light, so particularly when you’re on the wave you can
see,” he said. “You’ve still got the initial challenges of seeing a wave
coming.”
But
glow sticks suit Igel just fine. Their light was the only sign of him
as he stroked into a peeler, drew S-shaped turns and kicked out before
the wave dumped him on the shore. He immediately began clawing his way
back to the takeoff spot.
After
20 years of night surfing, Igel is accustomed to dicey situations. He
recalled collisions — and a 12-foot sneaker wave that gave him and a
friend the spin-cycle treatment. But those incidents have not kept him
from going out a few times a month.
For
Igel, a former ship navigator, bobbing offshore under the cover of
darkness is second nature. “It’s not only about trying to get away from
the crowds,” he said. “It’s the ambience, which is hard for me to put
into words.”
I got a taste of this eerie beauty between wave sets.
Digging
my hands through the water left sparkly white trails — what Igel calls
pixie dust — because of phosphorescence in the water. Stars twinkled.
Headlights from the occasional car reflected off low, wispy clouds.
Yet for all its allure, night surfing is linked to tragedy.
On
Oct. 27, 2015, just as night began to fall, the big-wave surfer Alec
Cooke paddled out at Waimea Bay in Oahu, Hawaii. After Cooke was
reported missing, emergency responders found his surfboard washed up on
shore, but not him.
Three
days later, the body of Kenneth Mann, a master surfboard sander who was
known to ride waves at night, was found tethered to his broken
surfboard on the beach in Encinitas, Calif.
The
Encinitas lifeguard captain Larry Giles said he had seen Mann jogging
to the beach with his surfboard an hour or so before sunset the previous
day. It is not clear what happened after that or when Mann drowned.
Given the lack of light, it is common for surfers’ eyes to play tricks on them: Is that kelp or something worse?
“Sharks
are a big part of night surfing, even if they are not actually there,”
said James McDonald, who joined Igel in sharing stories but did not
paddle out that particular night. “The thought is always with me.”
He
half-jokingly added that if he had the misfortune of encountering a
shark, he would receive “an amazing epitaph: ‘Eaten by Great White
Whilst Night Surfing.’”
Brad
Benter, also a part of San Diego’s night surfing scene, said he had
once spotted a shark’s dorsal fin 100 feet from him under a full moon
about 4:30 a.m. These days he wears an anklet meant to ward off sharks,
although he is not confident it works.
Still, the night surfers are moonstruck.
“Your
eyes start to adjust after a while, and while still hard to see, you
catch a wave,” McDonald said.
“And in your head it feels like you ride
two miles. Time stops.”
Night
surfing is not new. A 1909 Collier’s magazine article on surfing in
Hawaii described the annual Waikiki beachside carnival, in which surfers
rode with acetylene lamps. In 1969, Hawaii’s Jock Sutherland,
reportedly after taking LSD, rode 20-foot monsters at Waimea Bay well
after sundown, according to Matt Warshaw, author of “The History of
Surfing.”
“In
the ’60s, young surfers would occasionally go out because the
ingredients were there: summer, warm water and moonlight,” Warshaw said.
“Later, it became a way to get away from the crowd, and I’m not even
sure if that’s true anymore at prime spots.”
Back at the midnight break, Igel stroked into a wave that marched in from the darkness.
“This looks like a good one!” he said before dropping in.
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